拍摄羊卓雍错无数次
日出还是第一次
摄影： 赵利山 笑一
Having been to Yamdrok Yumtso numerous time, while first time at sunrise
我们的车爬到岗巴拉山口那一刻
第一缕阳光已经映红雪山
When our car climbed up to Gampa-la pass
First ray of sunlight had reddened tops of Snow Mountains
念青康桑雪山日出
Mt. Nyenchen Khangsang sunrise
苏醒的羊湖
Yamdrok Yumtso was reviving
晨光中的湖岸村庄
Lakeside village at dawn
晨光中的湖岸村庄
Lakeside village at dawn
金色湖滩
Golden lakeshore
雪山倒影
Snow mountain shadow
普莫雍错
（第四站）
PHUMO YUMTSO
(4th Stop)
湖平面海拔5000米
冬季冰封
海拔、温度都是不小的考验
At an elevation of about 5000 m
Phumo Yumtso was iced up
Altitude and temperature became challenges
由于冰面膨胀，湖岸被挤出一条冰墙
As a result of expansion, an ice wall was built up along lakeshore
冰墙如一道屏障阻挡我们走上湖面
It blocked us from path to the lake
库拉岗日雪山
Snow Mountain Kula Kangri
推村的安全小志愿者
A young Safety Volunteer from Tui Village
冰面断裂的声音如远方的闷雷
Crackles of breaking ice sounded like thunders far away
湖北岸的姜桑拉姆
To the north, stands Mt. Jiangsang Lamu
库拉岗日群峰
Peaks of Mt. Kula Kangri
卡久寺
（第五站）
KAJIU TEMPLE
(5th Stop)
每次卡久寺之旅
都是为了拍摄它最经典的角度
云雾已经成为卡久寺的一部分
Photographing cloud-wrapped Kajiu Temple
is indispensable of my journey here
这个冬天天气晴朗
云雾不见了踪影
卡久寺似乎少了些许仙气
Mostly sunny this winter, however
Clouds disappeared
Kajiu seemed to have missed a bit of fairyism
但这次的主角是卡久寺的精灵
不知是因为它们对佛的崇敬
还是因为僧众对它们的关爱
卡久寺已经成为它们的家
Whether because adoring Buddha
Or being loved by monks here
Numina of Kajiu gathered together
Under an aged tree at dawn
They turned Kajiu to their own home
黎明的来临
精灵们纷纷登场
With the day dawn breaking
Numina came out one after another
卡久寺的佛塔
A pagoda in Kajiu Temple
晨光照在远处的山顶
Tops of mountains were illuminated by morning sun
最先出现的血雉雌鸟
A female blood pheasant showed up
血雉雄鸟也用特殊的方式登场
A male blood pheasant followed in a special way
又一只
One more
好多只
Many more
用好奇的目光看着我
Staring at me curiously
这是另一种了，棕尾虹稚雌鸟
Here came another species, a female Himalayan monal
卡久寺的明星，棕尾虹稚雄鸟
A male Himalayan monal -- Star of Kajiu
来一张特写
Look over here for a close-up
雌雄差别还是蛮大的
The males and females are so different
它们在谈恋爱
Two of them were having a romance
一只毛绒绒的邻居（松鼠）也过来分享早餐
A hairy neighbor -- squirrel joined breakfast
又来了一个大块头（赤斑羚）
A fatty neighbor -- red goral joined too
看来它们已经习惯了分享
They’ve gotten accustomed to sharing
悬崖上的约会，旁边还有个电灯泡（雪鸽）
A date on the cliff, with a “light bulb”snow pigeon standing nearby
红嘴山鸦
Red-billed Chough
红嘴山鸦
Red-billed Chough
卡久寺堪布——江白尊者前来喂食
Khenpo of Kajiu -- Jiangbai Rinpoche, came to feed them
与我们相比，精灵们对尊者丝毫没有警惕性
Compared to us,
numina were not afraid of Rinpoche at all
它会久久凝视尊者，不知心中在想什么
Staring at Rinpoche,
it was thinking about something
它们已经是卡久寺的一部分了
They have been part of Kajiu Temple already
来自印度洋的暖风吹起了经幡
Indian Ocean’s warm wind blowing the prayer flags
我们临走前卡久寺上空升起一丝祥云
Propitious clouds arose
When we were about to leave
赛卡古托寺
（第六站）
SAIKAGUTUO MONASTERY
(6th Stop)
赛卡古托寺鲜为人知
米拉日巴尊者的故事却家喻户晓
具有千年历史的赛卡古托寺九层塔
就是历史的见证
Saikagutuo is rarely known
While the tale of Milarepa is widely known
The nine-storey Saikagutuo pagoda
Single-handedly built by Milarepa
witnessed history of a thousand years
赛卡古托寺
Saikagutuo Monastery
古老的壁画上绘制的米拉日巴像
Murals with a portrait of Milarepa
姐弟俩在寺院里认真地写作业
The siblings were doing their homework in the yard
姐姐抬头朝我们乐
The elder sister giggled when saw us
朝圣者顺时针环绕塔顶三圈才算完成一次朝拜
Pilgrims walk clockwise along the top of pagoda’s eave 3 times
白玛琳错
（第七站）
BAIMALIN TSO
(7th Stop)
西藏的错很多
美丽的错
一错再错
白玛琳错是错中的极品
Tso, in Chinese, has a meaning of “mistake”
There are innumerable Tso in Tibet
Beautiful “mistakes”
One and another
Baimalin Tso is a Nature’s masterpiece
黎明前库拉岗日已经泛红
Mt. Kula Kangri
卡热疆
Mt. Karejing
接着天边也开始泛红
Horizon started turning reddish
黎明降临，变成了冷灰色调
All are in cold grey before dawn
雪山上的第一束光
First sunbeam slanted towards mountain
色彩变化不容迟疑
Colors changed rapidly
此时才分辨出那些雪山的高低次序
At the moment, we could tell which is thehighest
如同燃烧的碳
Like burning carbon
最右边的过拉卡日终于也被照亮
The rightmost Mt. Guola Kari was lightened finally
整排雪山散发着金光
A row of Snow Mountains glittered
with golden light
湖水如金汁
Lake looked like molten gold
宁静的湖面不时传来冰川低沉的断裂声
Now and then, cracking glaciers were heard
阳光照射到了湖面
Sunshine spread towards Baimalin Tso
阳光终于照在了我的身上
Then towards where we were, finally
发现脚下的风景别有意趣
A view underfoot was with distinctive flavor
八廓街
（第八站）
BARKHOR STREET
(8th Stop)
回到拉萨
八廓街是朝圣的终极目的地
来去西藏都要到八廓街报到
Back to Lhasa
Barkhor Street, a Must-go place whenever I am in Lhasa, is an ultimate destination for Tibetan pilgrims
